A late update to the blog, but better late than never!
With the departure of the STS Bodrum the remaining crew piled onto the Virazon, and as we were raising anchor and making preparations to leave, the regular routine continued.

The remaining crew prepare to dive as the STS Bodrum raises anchor and sails back to Bodrum. Photograph by Ryan C. Lee.
Shortly after the departure of the majority of the crew, the remaining project members concentrated on freeing the pithos base and surrounding pottery fragments from the base of the Boulder. We had been very careful not to damage the pottery itself over the course of the summer by delicately chipping away at the surrounding concretion, and had managed to free the majority of the concretion surrounding the pithos, with the remaining concretion forming a pedestal underneath. Dr. Özdaş therefore determined that by using a long pry-bar, he should be able to pop the pithos base off the rocks below without damaging it. As you can see in the photo, it worked like a charm, and made further work in the area much more accessible, allowing them to remove the rest of the pottery.

Captain Ali, Dr. Harun Özdaş and John Littlefield stack airlifts on the deck of the Millawanda. Photograph by Dr. Furkan Yıldırım.
Following the removal of the pottery from the base of the Boulder, the last dives concentrated on cleaning up the site, and removing all the equipment we had left on the bottom, including the pieces to the ‘telephone booth,’ the airlift pipes and hoses, survey markers, datum stakes, and a few tools scattered about. With the Millawanda moored directly over the site, cleanup was a straightforward endeavour as everything could be easily raised by divers using lift balloons, and then loaded onto the Millawanda. Heavier items were raised onto the boat with the winch.

Living conditions on the Virazon were a bit cramped following the STS Bodrum's departure. Photograph by John Littlefield.
Of course, without the STS there, conditions were a little crowded for the last few days of the project – but it isn’t the first, and certainly won’t be the last time the Virazon was loaded with people and equipment.

Bodrum Museum of Underwater Archaeology director Yaşar Yıldız and his daughter Ceren aboard the Millawanda. Photograph by John Littlefield.
The material recovered from the site this summer now resides in Bodrum. But of course, this is not the end of their journey, as in the months and years ahead, conservators with the Bodrum Museum of Underwater Archaeology and archaeologists with the Institute of Nautical Archaeology will stabilize, conserve, and study the material. Eventually, the artifacts will be on display in the museum, and a final report on the Cape Gelidonya site will be prepared by Drs. Bass, Hirschfeld, and Özdaş with contributions from many others, to tells the story of the ship that met its demise on the rocky slopes of Turkey’s southern coast 3250 years ago.
In the meantime, look for updates on the project in forthcoming issues of the INA Quarterly and INA Annual.
Lastly, here are some miscellaneous videos from the summer:
Two ships, that is, with the departure of STS Bodrum and more than half of the Cape Gelidonya crew on August 18th. In the final week of work, we tried to get as much work done as possible, and made a great deal of progress: perfect timing, considering the season is almost over!
In archaeological news, the area we call the “Platform” was finished first. We had divided the Platform into four quadrants, NE, SE, SW, and NW, excavated primarily by Kim Rash, Emre Savaş, Dr. Nilhan Kaser, and Haley Streuding, respectively. The Platform was a productive area during the 1960 excavation, having yielded a concentration of copper and tin ingots, some pottery, and one weight in the center of the Platform. This season, the Platform again proved an area abundant in artifacts, especially the SE quadrant, closest to the center of the wreck distribution, but also in the SW and NE quadrants. Due to issues with publication rights, we can not publish artifact photographs, detailed descriptions, and updated siteplan on the blog, but we can say that copper, tin, ceramic, and stone artifacts were recovered from the Platform area this summer.

Site Plan - Adapted from the original site plan published in the 1967 report to the American Philological Association. In reality, the areas covered by each archaeologist are larger, but could not quite fit on the original site map.
The completion of excavation at the Platform freed the westernmost airlift, and it was thus repositioned at the entrance to the Gully, between the Boulder and the island slope. Previously, the Gully was inaccessible to airlifts, so excavation has been on a halt there since mid-July. While John Littlefield finished the last of his area between the Platform and the Gully, Ryan Lee began excavating the few sandy pockets in the central section of the Gully, with moderate success. Meanwhile, Ania Kotarba-Morley had finished her area on the opposite side of the Boulder, and began exploring the nooks and crevasses of the Boulder for small artifacts, and Sheila Matthews, Dr. Nicolle Hirschfeld, and Dr. Harun Özdaş were wrapping up their own sections further east, in areas we call ‘The Alley’ and ‘The Valley.’
A typical scene aboard Millawanda. Left to right: Dr. Furkan Yıldırım, Emre Savaş, Dr. Harun Özdaş, Emre Okan, Özgün Basıbüyük, Captain Ali, Ania Kotarba-Morley, Orkan Köyağasıoğlu, John Littlefield, Dr. Nilhan Kaser, and Matthew P. Dames. Photograph by Ryan C. Lee.
At the same time, photographer Susannah H. Snowden kept busy with site and artifact photography. As each day passed, increasingly fewer dives remained for her to get the key shots she has wanted all summer. Despite several tries earlier in the summer, we had only been able to send divers down with powerful underwater electric lights run on long cords from the Millawanda once due to problems with the current. Finally, late in the season, everything came together and Susannah was able to have the lights again and get the shots Gully she had been after all summer.
Marilyn Cassedy and Emre Okan continued their work in the eastern end of the Gully, attempting to chisel free a concentration of ceramic vessels completely concreted over, including the pithos base, a jug discovered next to it, and numerous as-yet-identified sherds. As work progressed and more and more of the vessels were revealed, work became increasingly more difficult, as the remaining concretion was harder to reach with chisels. With time winding down in the summer, it became uncertain whether or not we were going to be able to free the pottery before the end of the summer, so as archaeologists finished their sections, they were reassigned and added to the chiselling team. Soon, Marilyn and Emre were joined by Kim Rash, Haley Streuding, Emre Savaş, Dr. Nilhan Kaser, Matthew P. Dames, and Dr. Nicolle Hirshfeld. Dives were restructured to keep the chiselling to a maximum, and to avoid crowding in the tight area.
With so many divers working together in a small area, conversation became much more animated between dives aboard the Millawanda. Everyone was very excited to see the pottery come up, with an understanding for the need to be extremely cautious so as to not accidentally damage anything valuable while chiseling. As each chisel team surfaced, they would brief the next team on their progress. Flexibility was key, as the plan of attack had to be constantly changed as new areas to chisel were opened up, and others finished.
Overall, we were constantly amazed at how much more efficiently we worked as a team compared to a mere month ago at the beginning of the project. With dwindling time, there was a real sense of urgency to work as efficiently as possible. Each dive team knew exactly what they were going to be doing and how long it might take before they jumped in. Meanwhile, everyone by then was fully aware of what duties were to be performed between dives aboard the Millawanda and pitched in, making for a very well-oiled machine.
Even engine trouble was not enough to slow us down. When one of Millawanda’s engines (and generator) were out of commission one morning, we planned our dives around not having airlifts for several hours, or the ability to charge tanks, and were not hampered in the slightest. Thankfully, the issue was not major and repairs were affected in the field.
Even the weather managed to cooperate for the most part during the final push. While we were forced to cancel a day due to bad current and waves, we were able to put in full days every other day until the departure of the STS. We were surprised to discover our shot line missing one morning, which formerly ran from the Telephone booth to a pulley on the bottom of the trapeze, and back down to 30 lbs of weight suspended above the seabed. Apparently, the swells were so bad one night that the Telephone Booth was dragged a few feet by the shot line, which subsequently snapped. It caused a small delay the next morning to re-rig the shotline, and was particularly vexing to those who had been using the Phone Booth as a datum to measure from, especially Orkan Köyağasıoğlu , whose excavation area surrounded the Phone Booth.

Virazon sailor Burak Kutur and STS Bodrum captain Umit Akar lounging under the shade canopy aboard STS Bodrum. Photograph by Ryan C. Lee.
While the current stayed acceptable, the temperature soared throughout mid-August, and frequently threatened to hit 40°C. We all took particular care to keep hydrated, and stay in the shade or the air conditioning as much as possible, which was rapidly overtaxed by two many bodies. During the final push to wrap up as much as possible, it became increasingly important for the archaeologists to keep detailed dive logs, take photographs, and write reports detailing the work done in their areas. There was of course still a bit of time left for an after-lunch card game or three, one of our favourite leisure activities this season (be it Uno, Old Maid, Hearts, Spades, Gin Rummy, or an inappropriately named but very fun seven-letter game beginning with ‘A.’)

Marilyn Cassedy, Haley Streuding, Kim Rash, and Matthew P. Dames play gin rummy aboard STS Bodrum. Photograph by Ryan C. Lee.
Apart from the heat, another increasingly annoying nuisance of the past couple weeks has been plague of biting flies that has descended upon our small fleet. While looking innocuous enough, these small black flies take particular delight in biting us painfully on our ankles, even through our dive socks. Luckily, they are somewhat slow, but no matter how many we swatch each day, their numbers seem fully replenished by the next.

Marilyn Cassedy opens the last package of Kremali dive cookies. A summer of chiseling has taken its toll on Marilyn's hands, perhaps ruining dreams of becoming a hand model. Photograph by Ryan C. Lee.

Project conservator Kim Rash hosts a show-and-tell of the seaon'ss finds aboard the Virazon. Photograph by Ryan C. Lee.
Finally, with a last-ditch herculean effort to get the pithos out before the STS Bodrum departed with half the team, we ran six dive teams on August 17th, beating our previous record of six. Despite it all, the pithos and jug remained firmly concreted in the Gully by the time we left. However, we are hopeful that the reduced crew left aboard the Virazon will be able to keep making process, and hopefully raise them before the end of the month. So, while eight team members have departed to return to their respective homes and institutions, a select few remain to finish the remaining tasks, and wait for the submersible Carolyn to arrive, which they will use to explore further from the wreck site in an attempt to locate more stone anchors, with the help of Yaşar Yıldız who recently arrived from his position as director of the Bodrum Museum of Underwater Archaeology.
Hopefully we will receive a positive report from the remaining team soon regarding the pithos and other pottery. Good news or bad, the blog will be updated when we know more!
It’s been quite a week since we left Karaöz after the last update to the blog and resumed diving at Cape Gelidonya. Firstly, here are a few photos from our mooring spot in Karaöz, since the day off caught us slightly off guard I left the photos on the boat. I’ve mentioned it before, but the smells of pines once we’re near land, having been away for a time, is quite powerful.
Once we returned to the site, we were pleasantly surprised to find the current had dropped off to be almost insignificant. It was almost odd to have dives over the weekend without any current, but it really helped to increase our efficiency. Work progressed on Saturday and Sunday at a great pace. The Platform area is nearly finished so we have begun forming plans to move the airlift from the Platform to finish excavating the Gully, where so many of the personal possessions were found during the 1960 season. Half of the Gully is covered in concreted rocks, and we have been chiseling off this concretion in spots where artifacts might have fallen during the wreck. There was an entire pithos base and other pottery buried under this concretion in the area, so we are hoping for similar success.

Dr. Harun Ozdas assembles his dive equipment on the Millawanda prior to the first dive of the morning on Saturday. Photograph by Ryan C. Lee.
One completely unexpected and very unusual addition to our team came with us from Karaöz. Millawanda’s captain, Ali, purchased a rooster in Karaöz for 15 TL, so he could have a companion on the boat. So, for the last four days, Milloway the Rooster has been living in an open crate aboard the Millawanda, between the low-pressor compressor cage and the platform. The first day, Milloway seemed a bit seasick and was not enjoying his experience at sea, and many of us were very worried for his health. However, since Sunday he has been in very good spirits, eating lots and being a pleasant companion.
Ali sold Milloway today in the Adrasan market for four beers, so his brief experience at sea is at an end, probably for the best. At first, we were all very perplexed by the experience of having a rooster aboard our dive boat, but it was surprisingly fine while it lasted!
Also on Saturday, the real 50th anniversary of the 1960 excavation began, when the four surviving members of the original team arrived on site: Dr. George Bass, Ann Bass, Claude Duthuit, and Waldemar Illing. It was Claude and Waldemar’s first visit to to the site of the season; the first for Claude since the 1980s, and the first for Waldemar since 1960. They were both very excited to be there, snorkel the area, and view the wreck site. They arrived courtesy of Danielle Feeney, INA Director and member of the Executive Committee, aboard her yacht, the Andrea.

Dr. George Bass, Ann Bass, Claude Duthuit and Waldemar Illing aboard Danielle Feeney's yacht, Andrea. Cape Gelidonya is visible in the background. Photograph by Dr. Roger Williamson.

2010 and 1960 project members aboard the Andrea with Mrs. Feeney. Photograph by Dr. Roger Williamson.

Dr. Nicolle Hirschfeld watches as Waldemar Illing and Claude Duthuit snorkel above the wreck at Cape Gelidonya. Photograph by Ryan C. Lee.
On Monday morning, the 1960 members returned and George, Claude, and Waldemar joined the work rotation and prepared to dive together for the first time since the end of the 1960 excavation. The atmosphere on the Millawanda was electric as Dive Four suited up, consisting of the three 1960 members, as well as co-director Dr. Harun Ozdas and videographer Matthew P. Dames, who was along to film the experience. For many of us, this one dived marked the real 50th anniversary of the original excavation, and it was wonderful having the members of the original team with us to share their memories of what it was like here fifty years ago.

Waldemar Illing, Dr. George Bass, and Claude Duthuit share a moment aboard the Millawanda prior to their dive. Photograph by Dr. Roger Williamson.

Matthew P. Dames assembles his underwater video camera housing prior to diving with the 1960 team. Photograph by Ryan C. Lee.

Dr. Harun Ozdas leaps into the water ahead of George, Claude, and Waldemar. Photograph by Ryan C. Lee.
Monday afternoon, we were again blessed with very mild currents, winds, and waves, and work progressed as usual.

Laura Gongaware suits up before her final dive at Cape Gelidonya. Laura had to leave a bit earlier than the rest of the team as she will be entering law school in mid August, studing maritime law at Tulane University. Photograph by Ryan C. Lee.

Matthew P. Dames and Haley Streuding leap in the water to cool off. Photograph by Marilyn Cassedy.Matthew P. Dames and Haley Streuding leap in the water to cool off. Photograph by Marilyn Cassedy.

Marilyn Cassedy changes Kim Rash's O-ring after a small leak was discovered prior to her descent. Photograph by Ryan C. Lee.
Unfortunately, on Tuesday morning we discovered that the current had come back stronger than ever. Dive one struggled with the current so much at the decompression stop that we decided to recall dive two early. With strong winds forecast for the afternoon, we decided to move the fleet and seek the safer shelter of Adrasan. Tomorrow morning, we head back out for hopefully the final stretch. We have a lot of work ahead of us to finish before the end of the season, and not a lot of time left, thanks to this unexpected delay due to weather. Hopefully the next week will proceed as smooth as possible!
I don’t usually get a chance to update the blog before our regular day off on Friday, but we’ve had such problems with the weather this week, today marks our second day in port since we left Finike early Sunday morning. During our final day, we enjoyed some time off in town, and surprised Kim Rash by ordering a cake for her birthday, which we enjoyed with drinks aboard the STS Bodrum.

Kim Rash celebrates her 29th birthday in Finike aboard the STS Bodrum. Photograph by Ania Kotarba-Morley.
At 5:00 a.m., we were awakened by the roar of the diesel as the Bodrum and Virazon left the Finike marina and headed south down the coast to rendezvous with the Millawanda, which had left several hours earlier.
That morning we had some difficulty re-mooring the Millawanda over the site. The currents were so strong that the divers sent down to attach the line had great difficulty finding a suitable rock outcrop and attaching the line. A second dive team was sent down after the first, who managed to complete the job. As a result, we had a very late start to the day, but in the end we still managed to finish the day’s scheduled dives.
Late that afternoon, the current, waves, and position of the Millawanda worked in harmony to create a pocket of calm, glassy water on the starboard (north) side of the Millawanda. It was so clear, that from the deck, one could faintly see the white and yellow tanks of divers on the sea floor 27 meters (88.5 feet) below, and the divers at the 6 m / 20 ft decompression stop looked as though they were only a few feet below the surface.

Dive Safety Officer John Littlefield watches divers (left to right) Sheila Matthews, Dr. Nicolle Hirschfeld, Matthew P. Dames, and Haley Streuding (rear) at the decompression stop. Photograph by Ryan C. Lee.

Sheila Matthews, Haley Streuding, Dr. Nicolle Hirschfeld, and Matthew P. Dames 6 m / 20 ft below the surface at the decompression stop. Typically, when the current is weak the four divers will be on every side of the square 'trapeze.' Sunday's current was moderate to high, and has pushed everyone to one end of the trapeze. Photograph by Ryan C. Lee.

Haley Streuding swims from the decompression stop to the stern of the Millawanda following a successful dive. Photograph by Ryan C. Lee.

Dr. Nicolle Hirschfeld relaxes on the Millawanda following a late-afternoon dive on Sunday. Photograph by Ryan C. Lee.

Haley Streuding and Marilyn Cassedy admiring the sunset from the deck of the Millawanda. Photograph by Ryan C. Lee.

The sun sets over Cape Gelidonya following the final dive on Sunday, August 1st . Photograph by Ryan C. Lee.
Monday was a relatively normal day. The current was moderate, and allowed us to progress with a regular day of diving. That being said, our workforce was significantly smaller, as a few members of the team had to leave for a few days due to pressing business, but mostly from a rash of injuries. Two members were out with (possibly) broken toes, a third from severely cracked skin on the feet, a fourth from fever blisters, a fifth from a scorpion fish sting, and a sixth from an upset stomach. The one positive aspect of these injuries was that it allowed us to catch up on a lot of non-dive-related tasks, including the bulk of the artifact catalog and artifact photography. Also, as I right this, everyone is back to diving condition, so the injuries were fortunately short-lived.
On Tuesday morning, we woke to find that the Millawanda had snapped her mooring lines in the middle of the night from a combination of winds, waves, and currents. Captain Ali was forced to drive the boat throughout the night, and we spent the better part of Tuesday morning attempting to moor her again. The currents were particularly strong on Tuesday, and the divers helping with the re-mooring were extra tired following their dives. Thankfully, the current slackened later in the day, allowing for more archaeology dives, but it still was not a fun day for most divers.
If that was not enough, Millawanda again snapped her lines that night, forcing its quite-tired captain to drive the boat again throughout the night. The next morning, with only one anchor down it was far too choppy, and the current far to strong to finish mooring the ship. Ryan Lee and John Littlefield remained aboard to monitor the situation while Captain Ali got some much needed rest. Following lunch, with no improvement in the waves or current, we were forced to abandon diving altogether, and so the fleet moved to Karaöz to shelter for the night. We left early this morning, in the hopes that we could moor the Millawanda and dive today, but conditions were far from ideal, so we turned around and are now back in Karaöz. Today thus becomes our official day off for the week. Late this afternoon we will head back to Cape Gelidonya if the weather backs off. All of us would rather be working, as we’re getting rather fed up with all the missed dives, especially since most of us will be leaving in two short weeks.
This week we continued along the same lines as last week, with almost everyone working in their same areas. This coming week, we will probably begin to see a major shuffle as some areas are finished and new areas are opened, but for the past week, we have continued as before. Some of the same issues that have plagued us in the past continued to be an issue this week, including the currents, and swells.
We thought our problems with the current were in the past, until July 27th, when the current returned with a passion. The first two dives reported little problems, but later in the day, the current strengthened steadily, thus giving the later dives grief. Hanging on to the shot line and slowly ascending, the current pulled us horizontal, and we could see small bits of sediment and sea life whiz past us as if we were in a river.
Approaching the decompression stop, we could see the effect of the current on the oxygen regulators and dive slate attached to a line. The “trapeze,” a pair of heavy metal frames with a 20 pound lead weight hanging from them, seemed little affected until the four divers approached and held on. The current took the entire assembly and the trapeze hung askew, with the four divers hanging on and flapping in the breeze. It must have been about four knots, enough to consider canceling diving, but everyone stayed safe.
After another frustrating day hanging onto the ‘trapeze’ at the decompression stop in the current, Dr. Pulak devised a new system of anchoring the trapeze to both the Millawanda, and a second line anchored to the seabed, passing through a pulley block on the bottom of the trapeze, with a much-heavier weight suspended on this line. The result is a much more immovable decompression stop, making it both more comfortable and safer for our divers.
Also on the 27th, our two doctors, Roger Williamson and Hayriye Mutlu, along with our recompression chamber operators, archaeologist Orkan Köyağasioğlu and Virazon captain Zafer Gül demonstrated the recompression chamber aboard the Virazon. In order to maximize safety, INA installed a double-lock recompression chamber in Virazon’s former hold, between the two rows of bunk beds. The two major types of diving-related problems we might encounter in the field are decompression sickness, also known as “the bends,” and arterial gas embolisms.
DCS, or the Bends, can occur when a diver overstays their time on the bottom, rises too quickly, or misses their decompression stop and is caused by a too-rapid expansion of nitrogen in the bloodstream. Minor cases include skin rash and joint pain, but more serious cases can include paralysis, or even death.
An embolism on the other hand, occurs when compressed air bubbles are forced into the bloodstream, which can then causes blockages leading to heart attacks or strokes.

Dr. Roger Williamson (right) lectures on decompression sickness and arterial gas embolisms, while Dive Safety Officer John Littlefield looks on. Photograph by Çağatay Erciyes

From left to right, Dr. Harun Özdaş, Emre Okan, Dr. Nicolle Hirschfeld, and Dr. Nilhan Kaser in the hold of the Virazon during the recompression chamber orientation. Photgraph by Çağatay Erciyes.

(Left to Right). Çağatay Erciyes, Ryan C. Lee, Laura Gongaware, Haley Streuding, and Marilyn Cassedy watch as recompression chamber operator and archaeologist Orkan Köyağasıoğlu compresses the inner chamber to simulat a depth of 60 feet. Photograph by Çağatay Erciyes.
In the rare event that a diver suffers from decompression sickness or an embolism, they will be rapidly transported to the Virazon in a waiting inflatable, and carried into the recompression chamber. The interior of the chamber is pressurized to simulate a dive to sixty feet, with the patient alternating between breathing regular air, and pure oxygen. The air and oxygen tanks are kept full, and there are several compressors available for redundancy. We are very careful, and dive using the same conservative tables every day, but having the recompression chamber on site should we ever need it is certainly a welcome comfort, especially to those few in the past who have needed to use it.
That afternoon, our diving was again foiled, as the wind had whipped up the ocean, and the Millawanda was pitching in 1 – 1.5 m swells. The danger of a diver getting an embolism at the decompression stop increases when the boat (and trapeze) are pitching up an down, so we were forced to cancel diving. However, we were back up and running on the 28th, and completed a full day of diving.

Kim Rash prepares to send divers Laura Gongaware (left) and Susannah H. Snowden (right) down from the stern of the Millawanda. Photograph by Ryan C. Lee.

Marilyn Cassedy (left) and Laura Gongaware (right) wait for a dinghy at stern of the Millawanda. Photograph by Ryan C. Lee.
Apart from diving, we are kept busy with a variety of project related tasks, including filling out dive logs detailing the day’s work, sorting and editing surface and underwater photographs, and editing video. The day cabin on the Virazon and the main cabin of the STS Bodrum are frequent hubs of activity.

(Clockwise from bottom left) Sheila Matthews, Susannah H. Snowden, Kim Rash, Laura Gongaware, Matthew P. Dames, and Ania Kotarba-Morley hard at work filling out dive logs, editing photographs and videos, and completing miscellaneous project paperwork in the cabin of the STS Bodrum at night. Photograph by Ryan C. Lee.
By ten o’clock, work slows down and the crew begins settling in for the night. Sleeping on deck, we are fortunate to have a near-perfect climate, and an amazing lack of mosquitoes. Some nights, the most difficult element to deal with is the full moon, which can be shockingly bright. We also have a near nightly sightings of meteors, including one two weeks ago just before sunset that we observed breaking up into several pieces in the atmosphere.
At the moment, we are enjoying our last night in Finike. We had planned to arrive here after a full day of diving on Thursday, but we were again foiled by swells, and left before noon. As a result, we’ve enjoyed two and a half days off in port. It’s been a welcome break, but we are all very excited to start diving again tomorrow!
The fleet is currently moored in Adrasan, following the completion of another full week of diving. Today marks the first real day off for everyone since we arrived at Cape Gelidonya, and so we are all enjoying a much-needed break. This week was particularly busy and varied, but we have really hit our stride as far as organization goes. Everyone now knows what tasks need to be done each day on the Millawanda, and how to get their equipment together quickly and efficiently. While we have been perfecting those elements, we have had some new challenges to deal with.
Living and working on three boats means that we must be constantly shuttled back and forth, but project logistics, especially time and cost, dictate that we must try to do it in as few trips as possible, and everyone must really think about where they will be and what they will need when they are there, each and every day.

Ferrying divers from boat to boat - an inflatable boat leaves the Virazon bringing divers to the Millawanda, passing the STS Bodrum along the way. Photograph by Ryan C. Lee
Another challenge we faced this week was a water shortage on the STS Bodrum. The crew feels that we are using too much water, and owing to a partially functioning water maker, the STS had to make a run to Karaöz to replenish the water stores. We have all tried to be very conservative in our water usage – showering every other day, and using as little water as possible each time. It really makes one think of how fortunate we are to have as much fresh water as we do, and to have the ability to “make water.” There are twenty of us living on the STS, and sometimes it seems like quite close quarters; we can only imagine what it would have been like on similarly sized sloop-of-war or brig with a crew of 180 or so.
Our second major issue this week was the variable current at the site. Earlier in the week, we discovered that the current on the surface varies from virtually non-existent, to quite strong often several times during a single day. Typically, when there is a current, it flows west, sometimes making for a difficult swim from the decompression stop to the stern of the Millawanda. We have had to cancel a few individual dives due to the strong current.

Emre Savaş of the Bodrum Museum of Underwater Archaeology leaps from the stern of the Millawanda. Photograph by Ryan C. Lee
For the first time this week, we encountered a relatively strong bottom current, in addition to the surface current. It was not unexpected: Dr. Bass had told us frequently of the difficulties faced during the 1960 excavation with the current. Occasionally, they would have to pull themselves hand-over-hand down the shot line, and maintain a firm grip on the bottom to get any work done. Luckily, we haven’t faced a current quite so dramatic, however it has been annoyingly strong at times. We have never dived when the current is dangerously bad, but trying to move the large plastic airlift pipes in any current is quite a challenge! We have therefore instituted a new policy, whereby the second dive of the morning and afternoon does not descend until the first dive sends a report about the bottom current on the slate. Throughout the day, as each dive comes up, we are kept constantly informed about the bottom currents, and can plan or modify our dives accordingly. Measuring the positions of artifacts in a medium or strong current can be quite difficult, since the current can significantly bend our tape measures, throwing off our measurements.
We try to work around the current as much as possible, as it is extremely important to get important artifacts or artifact clusters measured, mapped, and photographed before they are raised to the surface. This careful recording is one of the key tenets of archaeology, as the specific distribution of artifacts on the sea floor can reveal the original distribution of cargo on the ship, or how cargo spilled during the wrecking event, or even the post-depositional disturbances like currents, human activity, or curious octopi. To aid in mapping, we have established ten datum points on the site that we can measure from, and Susannah H. Snowden and Sheila Matthews have been working on creating a new high-resolution photo-mosaic of the entire site. This mosaic is almost completed, and has really aided the divers in understanding their underwater notes and sketches.
Each diver is required to fill out a daily log, detailing what they did on each dive of the day, carefully noting where they worked, what artifacts were found, and which have been measured and mapped. These logs are periodically reviewed to ensure the work done is sufficient, with daily discussions between the diving archaeologists as to what is happening in each part of the wreck. From each log, we can piece together the whole picture of what is going on throughout the site, and what might have happened to the ship that wrecked next to this rocky island over three thousand years ago.
Work continues in much the same way as last week, with each diver continuing in their assigned area each day. These sections are not equally sized, so some are close to finishing, while others are perhaps half completed. Ryan Lee’s excavation work in the ‘Gully’ was temporarily suspended due the difficulties of moving an airlift into the area while the areas next to the gully are being excavated. And so, for three days, he has been exploring the site with an underwater metal detector, leaving quite a few new flags in several areas on the site. Metal detectors have been used previously on the site, both in the 1960 excavation, but also during the revisits in the 1980s. In fact, Tufan Turanlı found the pithos base we are currently trying to chisel free from the Boulder using a metal detector during one of those 1980 revisits, so we are hoping the metal detector will prove useful once again. Judging by the number of new tags that have appeared on the site since mid-week, it should prove fruitful.
We will continue with another full week of diving this week, assuming the currents and weather cooperate sufficiently, and will have more to report next Friday when we are back on dry land. We have reached the middle portion of the season – everyone is still fresh and excited to be here, and we have really established an efficient routine. Each day, it seems we see progressively more progress than the last, a trend we hope will continue.

STS Bodrum at night. When the lights come on after dark, we know we won't be in Cape Gelidonya when we wake up. Each white bundle shows someone sleeping on deck. Photograph by Ryan C. Lee
Well, we evacuated again last night, but the STS Bodrum crew was able to bring us back to Cape Gelidonya by 7:00 am, our usual breakfast time. The Virazon and Millawanda had remained (the long time interval between when our last dive surfaced and when we evacuated was long enough that we did not need the chamber immediately available), so it took very little time to get up and running. The captain of the STS Bodrum was not comfortable mooring in his usual spot east of the island, so after breakfast we all transferred to the Virazon and Millawanda, and the Bodrum left to seek safer waters.
It was noticeably windy and choppy throughout most of the day today, but not enough to be an actual problem. Getting in and out of the dinghy was a bit more interesting than usual, and we made sure to have each diver escorted to a bench as soon as they ascended the dive ladder, to prevent anyone from stumbling. The system worked quite well, and we have definitely gotten the diving routine down: each dive team was in the water and started their descent just after the previous team reached the decompression stop, while other team members attended to timekeeping and barge duties aboard the Millawanda.

Ania Kotarba-Morley monitors the decompression stop from the deck of the Millawanda, one of many duties that need attending throughout the day. Photograph by Marilyn Cassedy.
Marilyn continued chiseling at the pithos, which is very heavily concreted and poses a challenge. Dr. Pulak continued working his area this morning, chiseling concretion around some pottery which may belong to the wreck, but is so heavily concreted it is difficult to tell at this point. Other dive teams continued hand fanning and air lifting in their respective areas, and increasingly more objects are turning up. In preparation for finding more, many idle members of the crew spent time creating marker flags, using bright yellow or orange markers that can be driven into the seabed using bicycle spokes, or left on bedrock with a small lead weight.

(Back left) Ryan C. Lee, Ania Kotarba-Morley, Laura Gongaware, (center) Haley Streuding, Marilyn Cassedy, and Kim Rash fashioning artifact markers, while timekeeper Matthew P. Dames stands his post. Photograph by Dr. Nicolle Hirschfeld.

Marilyn Cassedy and Kim Rash making survey markers. The more artifacts we find, the more markers we need, so their excitement is evident on their faces. Photograph by Ryan C. Lee.
Many green objects are coming up, some of which are copper or bronze concretions, some artifacts, and many many stained lumps, where copper corrosion has bled into the concretions and rocks. The other major source of green on our dives is from scrapes and cuts when we accidentally brush against the sharp rocks while airlifting. They’re minor scrapes and cuts, but it is quite shocking to watch a scrape bleed green underwater when you’re not expecting it.
(Blood, and many other red-coloured objects appear green under water due to the filtering effect the water column has on sunlight).
Constant use takes a toll on dive equipment, and periodically regulators need servicing, hoses need changing, and o-rings need replacing. Our Dive Safety Officer, John Littlefield, is kept quite busy with all the service requests. Luckily, we have spare parts, and a real-life ‘MacGuyver’ in the form of Zafer Gül, captain of the Virazon.
We woke up in Karaöz this morning, instead of Adrasan as we had somewhat expected when we turned in last night during the evacuation, but it was not a problem, as now there are photos to go with the name.
We split the group today, as some had to go into Kemer to pick up their residence permits, while the rest have to wait a couple more days until theirs are finished. Those who were diving boarded the Virazon and Millawanda, and headed back to Cape Gelidonya after unloading the empty O2 tanks to be refilled.

Haley Streuding braids Marilyn Cassedy’s hair on the ride back to Gelidonya from Karaöz. Photograph by Ryan C. Lee.
With our reduced crew, we enough had enough divers left for three dive teams, rather than our usual five. It was actually ideal, however, since we had to go all the way back to Cape Gelidonya, re-moor the two ships, and prepare to dive. The first dive team went under at 11:20, and immediately reconnected the shot line and airlift hoses. Marilyn Cassedy continued chiselling the concreted pithos base, while Dr. Pulak worked on another piece of concreted pottery further west, while Emre Savaş and Ania Kotarba-Morley carefully airlifted in their respective sections. The second dive team of John D. Littlefield, Dr. Nicolle Hirschfeld, and Haley Streuding also worked on airlifting. John discovered some very exciting-looking concretions in his area that definitely warrant further investigation. The third dive was an acclimatization dive for INA archaeologist Sheila Matthews, who arrived the day before. While she was surveying the site from approximately sixty feet, her partner Ryan Lee was gathering and bagging the old fishing lines tangled about the south end of the slope. The afternoon dives were quite similar, though Xila photographed John’s concretions, to show the other divers, and then helped Ryan sort through a large crate of large rocks and possible concretions that he began clearing from his area.
As the third dive exited the water in the evening, the STS Bodrum arrived, bringing the other half of the team, residence permits in hand.
The reduced crew made for a quieter day, but the concretions in John’s area got the entire team talking excitedly over supper. We are really looking forward to seeing that area develop… but as I write this, another easterly wind has strengthened and we are evacuating again. Hopefully, it will calm down and we will get back to work at a reasonable time tomorrow.
Back to work! We were able to leave Karaöz yesterday morning, and have been busy setting up equipment to get fully up and running. Yesterday we assembled the airlift pipes on the deck of the Millawanda (each of our four airlift pipes is made of two sections of plastic pipe, coupled together). The completed lengths needed lines tied on for both weights and floats, in order to both anchor the airlift to the seabed, and elevate it at the proper angle for it to work. The airlifts were lowered to the seabed using a line, and Emre Savaş of the Bodrum Museum of Underwater Archaeology and Mine Bozkurt of the Antalya Archaeology Museum, along with Ryan Lee dove to untie the airlift bundle, and move each one to the designated weights. The dive finished early, so they were able to test out the now fully-assembled ‘phone booth.’ It is remarkably loud in there, and the air pressure significantly raises the pitch of divers’ voices, but it is an invaluable safety feature and communication device, as it allows divers to speak to each other if necessary, rather than relying on hand signals or written notes on dive slates.
Today, most divers began working on familiarizing themselves and working on specific areas of the site. Some teams are working at the base of the Boulder, while others are working on a promising-looking area we are calling ‘the Platform,’ and still others are working on a stubbornly-concreted pithos base that defied all attempts at recovery during two brief visits to the site during the Uluburun excavations.
Already some suspicious-looking coppery-green lumps are showing up after hand fanning the sediment away, but nothing we could definitively identify as a specific cultural object. But things look promising!
The other big event of the day was Dr. George Bass’ first dive of the season, and his first at Cape Gelidonya since the late 1980s. Only a few people here on the 2010 project have been privileged to dive with Dr. Bass before, and we all hope to get the opportunity by the end of the season. When he came to Gelidonya in 1960, Dr. Bass was a newly certified diver, who had only dived once in salt water before the project started. Fifty years later, he has many many more dives under his belt, though the equipment of 2010 is significantly different from what was available in 1960.

John D. Littlefield, Matthew P. Dames, Susannah H. Snowden and Dr. George F. Bass prepare to dive on the site. Photograph by Ania Kotarba-Morley.
The daily routine aboard Millawanda is busy, but well organized. Each day, two people are assigned a task, such as timekeeper, or barge chief. Timekeepers are responsible for keeping an accurate log of each dive, and keeping track of how long each dive team is down. Generally our dives are thirty minutes, morning and afternoon, with ten minutes of decompression at 6 meters (20 feet) for ten minutes in the morning, and fifteen in the afternoon. We breathe pure oxygen during our decompression stop, based on dive tables developed by Dr. Richard Vann of Divers Alert Network (DAN). Each tank of oxygen is fully used up, so we must have someone watch to see when each tank is dry, and to then switch tanks. The divers on the decompression stop pull on a line, which rings a bell tied to the side of the ship when they run out. They then breathe their regular air mixture in the 10 seconds or so it takes to switch the tanks.
Our airlift pipes are down on the site, but the air hoses that run from the Millawanda down to a manifold on the seabed are still being assembled. We seem to have temporarily misplaced a few of the connectors, but after a discussion we are fairly confident that we will find them in the morning.
The past two days have been at times very busy, and at other times quite slow. Our dives have mostly centered on getting everyone acclimatized to the depth (25-30 meters), and familiar with the area. There is a very large flat-topped boulder in the northeast corner of the site that serves as an easy reference point. We plan to concentrate part of our season on the area surrounding the boulder, as there many deep crevasses around its base where artifacts may have fallen.
After we had gone to bed last night, the wind started picking up out of the east, threatening to push the STS Bodrum towards the island we are moored next to. Before it got to that point, the crew decided it would be safest to leave the site and moor in the nearby town of Karaöz. Virazon and Millawanda also had to leave, as the sea could have worsened through the night, and it is important not to separate those who had dived on the site that day with the recompression chamber aboard the Virazon, in case any diver started showing symptoms of decompression illnesses.
We woke up this morning still in Karaöz, with clear skies, but still gusting winds. Conditions remained the same throughout the day, so we remained in Karaöz. A few members of the team went to Kemer to turn in the Ikamet (residence permit) applications we need to work at the site, and a few more went to town to take in trash and bring water from a freshwater spring found by Ali, the Millawanda’s captain, and fresh vegetables. Most of us remained on the boats, with some odd jobs to do, but mostly a lot of time to sit and enjoy the scenery. In fact, most of us took so much time to enjoy the scenery, we forgot to photograph any of it. And of course, there was a lot of Scrabble.

Susannah H. Snowden and Kim Rash playing Scrabble during our weather day in Karaöz. Susannah's final three letters just happen to spell INA - completely by coincidence! Photograph by Ryan C. Lee.
In the afternoon, a large, rotating game of Uno developed between the archaeologists, museum representatives, and STS Bodrum crew. Tomorrow we hope to return to the site, we would much rather be working!